Jerusalem Jumbled

hugs from Jerusalem-- where i am spending the summer working part-time for Seeds of Peace (SOP) and doing my doctoral dissertation research (sounds so adult, i know... don't be fooled!).

deep breath... :)

o.k., so ... seeds of peace in jerusalem.... well, i'm still processing everything (& will be this entire summer), but here goes?

i've been slowly settling in and understanding how much has changed since i last lived out here in summer 2000. tho so much looks the same (the Old City market sellers, golden-domed mosque meets synagogue meets church steeple, the big middle eastern sky and gleaming sunsets), and so much sounds the same (the calls to prayer in the distance throughout each day, the horns honking on congested Route #1, the friendly salaams or distrustful glances exchanged b/w friends and strangers), and so much tastes the same (the fresh tomatoes and cucumbers, orbitz apple gum--mmm!, middle eastern hummous), there is also so much that *feels* different. one can sense the sunken hope among the people-- israeli, palestinian, and palestinian-israeli alike . . . a certain resignation to the impossibility of co-existence (physical evidence: the segregation wall) . . . a deep distrust of anyone that seems to be on the other "team."

but this is exactly what makes the Seeds kids today (& their work here at the SOP Center) all the more exceptional. SOP embodies this attempt to defy the reality that tells these kids that there is no other way. whether it be through the kids who travel hours through checkpoints to participate in activities at the Center, . . . or kids who cannot come but remain active w/in their own communities and in correspondance with one another, . . . or kids who are trying to make sense of *how* they feel about Seeds given that one of their loved ones has just been injured, imprisoned, or killed, . . . or older Palestinian and Israeli Seeds "alum" now working as staff and leading this organization, . . . i feel privileged to witness the small miracles that surround me each day.

for those Fletcherites out there, on Friday, the one-and-only Prof. Shultz (head of Fletcher's Security Studies Dept.) spent the whole day with many of my older "Seeds" and some SOP Staff (after having spent a week on research with various Israeli intelligence and military leaders! talk about a change of speed . . . crazy, no?). we spent most of the afternoon here at the Center, then took a tour of the Old City, then dined altogether at a restaurant on French Hill.

not only did the Seeds speak to him about their experiences, but they grilled him with many difficult questions (my sweet revenge after having taken his Oral Comprehensive Exams just last month! :) ). the conversation included such questions as: "you teach 'security,' but what does that mean? how do you define it?"; "is israel doomed to be led by ex-military generals or personnel given our compulsory army service-- and, if so, does that mean that we will always have a 'military culture' ingrained in our country's mentality?"; "given that the palestinians do not have a standing army, how should we defend our civilians from israeli army attacks-- or what is the israeli army's responsibility in protecting our civilians when they are attacking in response to a terrorist bombing inside their country?".

i thought that Prof. Shultz fielded these questions patiently and well. then he spent a long time listening to their experiences, ideas, reflections, concerns... over the course of the day, i dare say that he seemed "sold" on the importance of our work here ... esp. as considered under the "human security" umbrella. for me, it was awesome to see my different worlds colliding... grad school meets seeds of peace; conflict resolution meets security; Shultz meets kheerallah and noa . . . you get the point!

as for my research, i am just turning to it now after a full week consumed by SOP Summer Staff Orientation and visits with a few old Seeds campers/ friends (now in their early 20s! man, makes me feel ollllddd!). i officially completed my first interview this morning and, all things considered, i think it went well.... the anthropologist in me is loving this phase of the Ph.D process!

o.k., if you've made it this far, you're crazy! (almost as crazy as me ;)

when you get the chance, please drop me a note to let me know how you are/ where you are/ your favorite ice cream flavor... it's always great to hear from "home."

i hope that you're all enjoying the beginning of summer! (btw, future updates won't be so long, as i've gotta actually start this whole dissertation schmissertation process).

sending my love,

from my corner of the world to yours....

ahsiya